1. Prepare Your Project

• Press all seams thoroughly to create well-defined ditches.
• For quilts, ensure all three layers are basted together using pins, spray basting, or hand basting.
• For garments, press seams toward the side where you’ll be stitching (typically toward the less visible side).
• Mark start and stop points with removable fabric marker if needed for precision.

2. Set Up Your Machine

• Install a stitch in the ditch foot or edge-joining foot if available; otherwise use a regular presser foot.
• Thread machine with matching thread on top and in bobbin, or monofilament on top with matching bobbin thread.
• Select straight stitch with standard length (2.5-3.0 mm for garments, 3.0-3.5 mm for quilts).
• For quilts, engage walking foot if stitching straight lines; use free-motion setup for curved ditches.
• Test tension on a scrap sandwich matching your project’s thickness.

3. Position and Align

• Place project under presser foot with the seam line (ditch) aligned with your foot’s center guide or needle position.
• For pressed-open seams, stitch directly on the seam line.
• For pressed-to-one-side seams, stitch on the lower side of the seam (the side without the seam allowance bulk).
• Lower presser foot and pull both threads toward the back.

4. Begin Stitching

• Start with needle down in the ditch at your beginning point.
• Take 3-4 tiny securing stitches (0.5 mm length) or backstitch if the area will be covered.
• Return to normal stitch length and begin sewing slowly along the seam line.
• Keep your eyes focused slightly ahead of the needle, not directly on it.
• Use your hands to gently spread the fabric on either side of the seam to open the ditch.

5. Maintain Alignment

• Guide fabric with even pressure, using a stiletto or awl to adjust alignment without getting fingers too close to needle.
• For long straight lines, stop periodically with needle down to readjust grip and check alignment.
• At intersecting seams, slow down and carefully navigate over bulk, using handwheel if necessary.
• Keep fabric flat and taut but not stretched.

6. Navigate Corners and Curves

• For corners: Stitch to corner point, stop with needle down, lift presser foot, pivot fabric 90 degrees, lower foot, continue.
• For curves: Reduce speed and make micro-adjustments continuously, stopping with needle down to reposition as needed.
• For circles: Work from outer edges toward center or vice versa to prevent puckering.

7. Finish Stitching

• At ending point, reduce stitch length to 0.5 mm and take 3-4 securing stitches, or backstitch if hidden.
• Lift presser foot with needle in highest position.
• Pull project toward back of machine and clip threads, leaving 4-6 inch tails.
• Pull top thread to back using a hand needle and tie off with bottom thread; trim excess.

8. Final Pressing and Inspection

• Press stitched areas lightly if needed, being careful with monofilament thread (use lower heat).
• Inspect from right side to ensure stitching is invisible or minimally visible.
• Check back for puckers or gathered areas; release and restitch if necessary.
• For quilts, continue with remaining ditches working from center outward or following your quilting plan.