Slits and Kick Pleats
@ProfessorPincushion
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Learn how to sew slits and kick pleats to add movement, style, and walking ease to skirts, dresses, and fitted garments—master these essential techniques for creating professional-looking vents with clean finishes and durable reinforcement
Materials Needed:
- Garment fabric (woven cotton, wool, linen, or suiting)
- Lining fabric (optional for lined slits)
- Fusible interfacing strips (1 in wide for reinforcement)
- Sewing machine and matching thread
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- Seam gauge or clear ruler
- Fabric marking tool (chalk, washable marker, or tailor’s tacks)
- Pins or wonder clips
- Iron and pressing surface
- Hand sewing needle for finishing
- Optional: Topstitching thread for decorative finish
- Optional: Seam tape or bias binding for raw edges
- Optional: Walking foot for thick fabrics
Tips for Perfect Slits and Kick Pleats:
- Reinforce first: Always interface or stay-stitch the top corners of slits to prevent tearing during wear.
- Mark precisely: Use a seam gauge to mark consistent slit depths and pleat widths on both sides for symmetry.
- Press direction matters: Press slit extensions toward center back or side seams depending on garment design for proper overlap.
- Grain alignment: Cut kick pleat inserts on the same grain as the garment for consistent drape and movement.
- Test walking ease: Try on the garment before final hemming to ensure slits and pleats provide adequate movement.
- Finish raw edges: Serge, bind, or pink raw edges inside slits to prevent fraying, especially on unlined garments.
- Bar tack reinforcement: Add small bar tacks or triangular stitching at slit tops to distribute stress and prevent tears.
- Consider lining: Lined slits look more professional and hide raw edges completely without extra finishing.
1. Plan Your Slit or Kick Pleat Placement
- Determine slit length based on garment style (typically 4–10 in for walking ease, longer for dramatic effect).
- Mark slit placement: center back, side seams, or front for wrap styles.
- For kick pleats, calculate extra fabric needed: typically 4–6 in total width for the pleat underlay.
- Transfer markings to fabric using tailor’s tacks or washable marker.
2. Basic Straight Slit Method
- Add 2 in extension to each slit edge when cutting pattern pieces (1 in for facing, 1 in for seam allowance).
- Apply 1 in wide fusible interfacing strips along slit edges on wrong side, extending 1 in above slit top.
- With right sides together, sew center back or side seam, stopping precisely at slit opening mark.
- Backstitch or reinforce with tiny stitches at slit top.
- Press seam open above slit; press slit extensions to wrong side along fold line.
- Fold under raw edges 1/2 in and press.
- From right side, topstitch 1/4 in from folded edges if desired.
3. Mitered Corner Slit (Professional Finish)
- Mark slit opening plus 1 in seam allowance on each edge.
- Sew seam to slit top; pivot and stitch horizontally 1 in, then diagonally to corner at 45-degree angle.
- Clip carefully to corner point without cutting stitches.
- Press seam open above slit; press slit edges to create mitered corner.
- Hand stitch mitered corners in place with invisible stitches.
- Topstitch around slit opening 1/4 in from edge, pivoting at corners.
4. Kick Pleat Construction
- Cut pleat underlay piece: width equals desired pleat depth plus seam allowances, length matches skirt from pleat top to hem.
- Finish center edges of main garment pieces where pleat will attach.
- With right sides together, stitch underlay to one garment edge from pleat top to hem.
- Press seam toward underlay.
- Attach other garment edge to opposite side of underlay, matching pleat top precisely.
- Press second seam toward underlay.
- From right side, create inverted box pleat by folding edges to meet at center; press firmly.
- Baste pleat in place at waistline.
- Optional: Edgestitch pleat folds from waist to hip level to maintain shape.
5. Lined Slit Method
- Cut lining pieces with same slit extensions as fashion fabric.
- Sew garment and lining separately, leaving slits open.
- With right sides together, align slit edges of garment and lining.
- Stitch around slit opening, pivoting at corners.
- Clip corners carefully; trim seam allowances to 1/4 in.
- Turn right side out through slit opening; press edges crisp.
- Hand stitch lining to garment at slit top for security.
6. Reinforcement Techniques
- Bar tack: Use tight zigzag stitch (0.5 mm length, 3 mm width) across slit top for 1/2 in.
- Triangle reinforcement: Stitch small triangle at slit top, crossing over point multiple times.
- Hand-sewn arrowhead tack: Create decorative triangular reinforcement with buttonhole stitch.
- Fusible tape: Apply narrow fusible stay tape along slit edges before construction for invisible support.
7. Hemming with Slits and Pleats
- Hem garment before finishing slit edges for easier handling.
- At slit corners, create tiny mitered folds to eliminate bulk.
- Press hem allowance, opening out slit extensions temporarily.
- Refold and finish slit edges after hemming is complete.
- For kick pleats, hem underlay and garment pieces separately before final assembly.
8. Troubleshooting Common Issues
- Slit gaps open: Overlap extensions more or add small snap at top for security.
- Corners tear: Reinforce with additional interfacing or hand-sewn buttonhole stitch.
- Pleat won’t stay folded: Add internal stay tape or stitch pleat edges down further from waist.
- Uneven lengths: Re-measure and trim carefully, checking both sides match exactly.
- Bulk at intersections: Grade seam allowances and use thinner interfacing.
Top FAQs for this technique:
Standard walking slits range from 4–10 inches, with 6–8 inches most common for knee-length skirts. Longer slits require additional reinforcement.
Slits are simple openings with faced or hemmed edges. Vents have overlapping extensions that conceal the opening, common in tailored garments.
Add a hook and eye or small snap at the slit top, ensure proper overlap of extensions, or weight the hem slightly for better drape.
Yes, carefully mark placement, stay-stitch edges, cut opening, then face with bias tape or matching fabric strips for a clean finish.