1. Cut and Interface the Pocket

• Cut pocket pieces according to your pattern or desired finished size plus seam allowances (typically 1/2 in to 5/8 in on sides and bottom, 1 in to 1 1/2 in at top for hem).
• If using interfacing, fuse it to the wrong side of each pocket piece following manufacturer instructions; trim interfacing close to seam allowance edges to reduce bulk.

2. Finish the Pocket Top Edge

• Fold the top edge of the pocket to the wrong side at the hem allowance (commonly 1/4 in, then fold again 3/4 in to 1 in for a double-fold hem).
• Press firmly; pin or use Wonder Tape to hold in place.
• Edgestitch or topstitch along the lower fold of the hem, backstitching at both ends.
• Optional: Add a second row of topstitching 1/4 in from the first for a sportswear or utility look.

3. Shape the Pocket Sides and Bottom

• For square pockets: Fold side and bottom seam allowances to the wrong side along marked seamlines; press. Miter the bottom corners by folding the corner diagonally, trimming excess bulk, then folding sides over bottom; press flat.
• For rounded or curved pockets: Create a cardboard template of the finished pocket shape. Fold seam allowances over the template edge, clipping curves every 1/4 in to 1/2 in; press firmly to set the shape. Remove template carefully; press again to sharpen the fold.
• For angled or shaped pockets: Mark seamlines with marking tool; clip or notch curves and corners as needed; fold and press allowances to the wrong side, easing curves and pivoting at corners.

4. Press and Baste Pocket Edges (Optional)

• After pressing all seam allowances under, edgestitch or hand-baste 1/8 in from the folded edge to hold the pocket shape during application.
• Alternatively, use a fabric glue stick or small dots of Wonder Tape at intervals along the seam allowance to secure without basting stitches.

5. Mark Pocket Placement on Garment or Project

• Use a ruler and fabric marking tool to mark the exact position of the pocket on the right side of the garment or project piece.
• For symmetrical pockets (e.g., on pants or jackets), measure from the same reference points (side seam, center front, waistline) to ensure even placement.
• Mark all four corners or the center and edges; double-check measurements before pinning.

6. Pin or Clip the Pocket in Place

• Position the pocket right side up on the right side of the garment, aligning pressed edges with placement marks.
• Pin around the perimeter, placing pins perpendicular to the edge or just inside the seam allowance so they can be removed as you sew.
• Alternatively, use clips on thick fabrics or apply small pieces of double-sided basting tape under the pocket edges (avoid tape in the stitching path).

7. Topstitch the Pocket to the Garment

• Select your topstitching method: edgestitch (1/16 in to 1/8 in from folded edge), standard topstitch (1/4 in from edge), or double topstitch (two parallel rows).
• Begin at one top corner; backstitch to secure. Sew down the side, pivot at the bottom corner with needle down, continue along the bottom, pivot again, and sew up the opposite side to the top corner; backstitch to finish.
• For rounded pockets, sew slowly around curves, stopping with the needle down to pivot frequently and maintain an even distance from the edge.
• Leave the top hemmed edge unstitched (it was already finished in step 2).

8. Reinforce the Top Corners

• Choose a reinforcement method based on garment style and pocket use:
• Triangle tack: At each top corner, stitch a small triangle pointing down into the pocket (typically 1/4 in to 3/8 in tall); backstitch at the start and pivot at each corner of the triangle.
• Box or bar tack: Stitch a small rectangle or tight zigzag bar at each top corner, backstitching or using a bar tack stitch if your machine has one.
• Decorative reinforcement: Use a small circle, cross, or other decorative stitch available on your machine for a design detail.
• Press the finished pocket flat from the wrong side, then lightly from the right side with a press cloth if needed.

9. Troubleshooting Common Issues

• Pocket edges ripple or pucker: Use interfacing, press more thoroughly, reduce fabric bulk by grading seam allowances, and check thread tension.
• Uneven topstitching: Use an edge stitch foot or guide, mark a stitching line with chalk or removable pen, and sew slowly.
• Pocket shifts during sewing: Increase pins or clips, use basting tape or glue stick, or hand-baste the pocket perimeter before machine stitching.
• Curved edges aren’t smooth: Clip more notches in the seam allowance and press over a curved template; ease the fabric gradually as you press.
• Top corners pull away with use: Add reinforcement stitching (triangle, bar tack, or box) and backstitch securely at the start and end of topstitching.