How to Sew Raglan Sleeves
@ProfessorPincushion
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Learn how to sew raglan sleeves to create comfortable, sporty garments with diagonal seams that run from the neckline to the underarm—perfect for beginners and advanced sewists seeking easy sleeve construction and maximum freedom of movement in knit and woven garments.
Materials Needed:
- Fabric (knit fabrics like jersey, French terry, or fleece; or woven cotton, linen, or chambray)
- Raglan sleeve pattern pieces (front bodice, back bodice, sleeve pieces)
- Sewing machine with appropriate needle (ballpoint for knits, universal for wovens)
- Matching thread or contrasting thread for topstitching
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter and mat
- Pins or clips (Wonder Clips work well for knits)
- Fabric marking tool (chalk, frixion pen, or washable marker)
- Iron and pressing surface
- Seam gauge or quilting ruler
- Optional: Serger or overlock machine for finishing seams
- Optional: Walking foot for knits
- Optional: Twin needle for hemming knits
Tips for Perfect Raglan Sleeves:
- Match notches carefully: Raglan seams are curved and rely on accurate notch matching to prevent puckering or twisting.
- Staystitch curves first: A row of stitching just inside the seamline on concave curves prevents stretching during construction, especially on knits.
- Ease fullness gradually: The sleeve cap may have slight ease; distribute it evenly using pins or by finger-pressing as you sew to avoid gathers or pleats.
- Press as you go: Press raglan seams toward the sleeve after stitching to maintain shape and reduce bulk at the neckline.
- Test seam finish: Choose serging, zigzag, or French seams based on your fabric weight and whether it ravels.
- Check symmetry: Before stitching, lay out both sleeves to confirm they mirror each other and notches align with bodice pieces.
- Use the right stitch: Straight stitch for wovens; narrow zigzag or stretch stitch for knits to allow seams to move with the fabric.
- Pre-finish raw edges: If your fabric ravels heavily, finish raglan seam allowances before assembly.
1. Prepare Your Pattern Pieces
- Cut out all raglan pattern pieces: front bodice, back bodice, and two sleeve pieces (left and right).
- Transfer all pattern markings including notches, grainlines, and any ease marks onto the wrong side of the fabric using a marking tool.
- Identify which edges are raglan seams: typically the diagonal seams running from neckline to underarm on both bodice and sleeve pieces.
2. Staystitch Curved Edges (Optional but Recommended)
- On the front and back bodice pieces, staystitch the curved raglan seamlines at 1/8 in (3 mm) inside the seam allowance to prevent stretching.
- Use a regular stitch length (2.5 mm) and do not backstitch at ends.
- This step is especially important for knit fabrics and bias-cut wovens.
3. Attach Front Sleeve to Front Bodice
- Place the front bodice piece right side up on your work surface.
- Take one sleeve piece and identify the front raglan edge (check pattern markings or notches).
- With right sides together, align the front raglan edge of the sleeve with the front raglan edge of the bodice, matching all notches and marks.
- Pin or clip at notches first, then add pins every 2–3 in along the curve, easing any fullness.
- Stitch the seam using your pattern’s seam allowance (commonly 1/2 in or 5/8 in for wovens; 1/4 in or 3/8 in for knits).
- If sewing knits, use a narrow zigzag (width 1 mm, length 2.5 mm) or stretch stitch to allow the seam to stretch.
- Backstitch at both ends
4. Attach Back Sleeve to Back Bodice
- With right sides together, align the back raglan edge of the same sleeve with the back raglan edge of the back bodice, matching notches.
- Pin or clip as in Step 3, distributing any ease evenly.
- Stitch the seam using the same seam allowance and stitch type.
- You now have one sleeve attached to the front and back bodice.
5. Repeat for the Second Sleeve
- Repeat Steps 3 and 4 for the opposite sleeve, attaching it to the remaining front and back bodice raglan edges.
- Double-check that both sleeves mirror each other and are attached to the correct sides.
6. Press the Raglan Seams
- Press all four raglan seams toward the sleeves (away from the bodice) to reduce bulk at the neckline.
- Use a pressing ham or rolled towel to support curved seams and prevent flattening.
- For knits, use a press-and-lift motion rather than sliding the iron to avoid stretching.
7. Finish the Raglan Seam Allowances
- Serge or overlock the raw edges of all four raglan seams together.
- Alternatively, use a zigzag stitch, pinking shears, or bind with bias tape for wovens.
- For a clean finish on lightweight wovens, consider French seams (requires trimming and re-stitching).
- Press seam allowances toward the sleeve again after finishing.
8. Sew the Side and Underarm Seams
- With right sides together, align the front and back pieces along one side seam, continuing down the underarm seam of the sleeve in one continuous line.
- Match the raglan seam intersection carefully; pin or clip to secure.
- Starting at the hem edge, stitch the entire side and underarm seam in one pass using the same seam allowance.
- Backstitch at the beginning and end, and reinforce the underarm curve with a second line of stitching if desired.
- Repeat for the opposite side and underarm seam.
9. Press Side and Underarm Seams
- Press side and underarm seams open or toward the back, depending on your fabric and seam finish.
- For knits, pressing seams open helps reduce bulk and creates a flatter finish.
- Use a tailor’s ham to press the underarm curve smoothly.
10. Finish the Neckline
- Apply your chosen neckline finish: ribbed band, bias binding, facing, or neckband according to your pattern instructions.
- Ensure the neckline finish is sewn with the raglan seam allowances pressed in the correct direction to avoid lumps.
- Topstitch the neckline if desired for a professional look.
11. Hem the Sleeves and Garment
- Hem the sleeve cuffs and garment hem using a straight stitch or twin needle for knits.
- For knit hems, fold under 1 in (2.5 cm) or according to pattern, press, and topstitch with a twin needle or use a coverstitch machine for a professional finish.
- For woven hems, fold under 1/4 in (6 mm), press, fold under again by 3/4 in (2 cm), press, and edgestitch close to the inner fold.
12. Final Pressing and Inspection
- Give the entire garment a final press, paying attention to all seams and the neckline.
- Turn the garment right side out and check that both sleeves hang symmetrically and the raglan seams lie flat without twisting.
- Try on the garment and check for comfort and range of motion; raglan sleeves should allow easy shoulder and arm movement.
More Sewing Techniques!
Top FAQs for this technique:
A raglan sleeve extends from the neckline to the underarm in one diagonal seam, eliminating the traditional shoulder seam and providing maximum comfort and ease of movement.
Yes, raglan sleeves are generally easier for beginners because they use straight or gently curved seams instead of easing a rounded sleeve cap into an armhole.
Absolutely. Raglan sleeves work beautifully on both knit and woven fabrics, though knits are more forgiving due to their stretch.
Twisting occurs when notches aren’t matched accurately or when seam allowances aren’t pressed consistently toward the sleeve. Double-check alignment before stitching.
Topstitching is optional but adds a professional sporty look and helps keep seam allowances flat, especially on activewear and casual knit garments.



