1. Identify Seams That Need Grading

• Look for enclosed seams where multiple fabric layers are stitched together and then turned right side out, creating a finished edge with the seam allowances hidden inside.
• Common candidates include collar edges, cuff edges, waistbands, pocket flaps, lapel edges, faced necklines and armholes, and bound buttonholes.
• Structural seams like shoulder seams, side seams, sleeve seams, and inseams should never be graded.

2. Stitch the Seam and Press Flat

• Stitch the seam as your pattern directs, typically with a 5/8 in or 1/2 in seam allowance.
• Without opening the layers, press the seam flat exactly as it was stitched to set the stitches and meld the threads into the fabric.
• This step prevents puckering and creates a foundation for clean grading.

3. Determine the Layer Order

• Identify which fabric layer will end up closest to the outside or body of the garment when turned right side out.
• This outer layer should retain the widest seam allowance after grading.
• Inner layers, interfacing, and facing layers should be trimmed progressively narrower.

4. Trim the Outer Layer First

• Using sharp fabric scissors, carefully trim the seam allowance of the outer layer to approximately 1/4 in from the stitching line.
• Cut smoothly and evenly along the entire seam, staying parallel to the stitching.
• Be careful not to accidentally cut through the stitching line or the fashion fabric.

5. Trim Inner Layers Progressively Narrower

• Trim the next layer (usually the facing or lining) to approximately 1/8 in from the stitching line.
• If there is interfacing, trim it even closer to the stitching line, leaving just a scant 1/16 in or trimming nearly to the stitches.
• The goal is to create a stepped or graduated effect so each layer ends at a different distance from the stitching, preventing a visible ridge on the right side.

6. Clip Curves and Trim Corners

• For concave (inward) curves like necklines, clip small perpendicular snips into the seam allowance up to but not through the stitching line, spacing clips approximately 1/2 in apart.
• For convex (outward) curves like collar edges or pocket flaps, cut small wedge-shaped notches from the seam allowance to remove excess fabric.
• For sharp corners like collar points or mitered edges, trim diagonally across the corner close to the stitching, creating a small triangle cut; this reduces bulk and allows the corner to turn crisply.

7. Press the Graded Seam

• Press the graded seam allowances open if possible, using a seam roll or pressing ham for curved seams.
• If the seam cannot be pressed fully open, press both allowances toward the facing or lining side.
• Use the tip of the iron and avoid stretching the fabric, especially on bias or curved edges.

8. Turn and Press the Finished Edge

• Turn the garment piece right side out, gently working out corners with a point turner or wooden chopstick; avoid using sharp objects that can puncture fabric.
• Roll the seam slightly to the inside so the stitching line does not show on the right side.
• Press from the right side with a press cloth if needed, allowing steam to set the edge crisply.
• Topstitch or edgestitch if your pattern calls for it, stitching 1/8 in or 1/4 in from the finished edge.

9. Check for Ridges or Bulk

• Examine the finished edge from the right side in good lighting; if you see a ridge or bump from the seam allowances, your grading may not be progressive enough.
• If bulk is still visible, carefully open the seam, trim the inner layers slightly more, and re-press.
• On very lightweight or sheer fabrics, use pinking shears on the widest layer to further reduce visible lines.

10. Troubleshooting Common Grading Issues

• Visible ridge on the right side: Inner layers not trimmed narrow enough; re-open and trim more aggressively.
• Seam pulls away from stitching: Trimmed too close or clipped through stitching; reinforce with a second line of stitching just inside the original seam before grading next time.
• Corners won’t turn crisply: Trim closer to the corner point diagonally and ensure corner stitching has a short stitch length for strength.
• Fraying after grading: Finish graded edges on loosely woven fabrics with a thin line of fabric sealant or pinking shears on the outer layer only.