Buttonhole Stitch Applique
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@SarahHomfrayEmbroidery
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Step-by-Step Instructions:
Learn how to sew buttonhole stitch applique to create bold, decorative fabric shapes with hand-embroidered edges—perfect for beginners and advanced sewists seeking traditional folk-art finishes, durable raw-edge applique, and beautiful heirloom embellishment on quilts, garments, and home décor.
Materials Needed:
- Base fabric (cotton, linen, wool felt, or denim)
- Applique fabric (cotton, felt, wool, or fusible-backed cotton scraps)
- Embroidery floss or perle cotton (size 5, 8, or 12 depending on desired stitch prominence)
- Embroidery needle (sharp or crewel needle, size 5–9)
- Fabric scissors or applique scissors with fine tips
- Template material (card stock, template plastic, or freezer paper)
- Fabric marking tool (water-soluble pen, chalk pencil, or heat-erasable pen)
- Lightweight fusible web (e.g., Heat’n Bond Lite, Steam-A-Seam Lite) for raw-edge applique
- Pins or fabric glue stick for temporary hold
- Embroidery hoop (4–8 in diameter) for stability
- Iron and pressing surface
- Optional: Thimble for hand protection
- Optional: Light box or window for tracing designs
Tips for Perfect Buttonhole Stitch Applique:
- Fuse first for raw edges: Use lightweight fusible web to anchor applique shapes before stitching; it prevents shifting and fraying during embroidery.
- Choose contrast thread: Perle cotton or 2–3 strands of embroidery floss in a contrasting color makes the buttonhole stitch pop and defines the shape.
- Stitch density matters: Space stitches close together (1/16–1/8 in apart) for durable edges; wider spacing creates a lacier, decorative look.
- Keep tension even: Pull each stitch snug enough to loop over the raw edge without puckering the base fabric.
- Anchor in a hoop: Use an embroidery hoop to keep fabric taut and stitches uniform; re-hoop as you move around the shape.
- Start at a curve or corner: Begin stitching at an inconspicuous spot like a curve or inner corner so the starting knot is hidden.
- Stitch direction consistency: Always work in the same direction (clockwise or counterclockwise) around the shape for even stitch slant.
- Test stitch length on scrap: Practice on a fabric scrap to find the stitch length and spacing that suits your design scale.
- Press finished work face-down: Protect dimensional stitches by pressing the back of the work on a towel or padded surface..
1. Select and Prepare Your Design
- Choose or draw a simple applique shape (hearts, flowers, leaves, circles, folk-art motifs work well for beginners).
- Trace the design onto template material (card stock or template plastic) and cut out the template precisely.
- For fusible applique, trace the mirror image of the design onto the paper side of fusible web if the shape is directional.
- Note: Buttonhole stitch is ideal for shapes with gentle curves and minimal tight interior corners.
2. Cut and Fuse Applique Shapes
- If using fusible web, follow manufacturer instructions to fuse the web to the wrong side of your applique fabric.
- Place the template on the right side of the fused fabric (or directly on fabric if not using fusible) and trace around it with a marking tool.
- Cut out the shape precisely on the drawn line using sharp fabric scissors or small applique scissors.
- Peel off the paper backing if using fusible web.
- Position the applique shape right side up on the right side of the base fabric; press to fuse in place, or pin or baste if not using fusible.
3. Secure Fabric in Embroidery Hoop
- Place the base fabric with fused applique in an embroidery hoop, centering the shape.
- Tighten the hoop so the fabric is drum-tight and smooth; this prevents puckering and makes stitching easier.
- If the shape is large, you may need to re-hoop as you work around the perimeter.
4. Thread Your Needle
- Cut an 18–24 in length of embroidery floss or perle cotton (longer lengths tangle; shorter lengths require frequent rethreading).
- For embroidery floss, separate the strands and use 2–3 strands for a medium-weight stitch, or all 6 strands for bold definition.
- Thread the needle and knot one end with a simple overhand knot or quilter’s knot.
5. Anchor the Thread
- Bring the needle up from the back of the base fabric just outside the raw edge of the applique shape at your starting point.
- Take a tiny anchoring stitch or two in the base fabric near the edge to secure the knot invisibly.
- Alternatively, start with the knot on the back and plan to cover the thread tail with subsequent stitches.
6. Work the Buttonhole Stitch (Blanket Stitch Variation)
- Insert the needle down through both the applique and base fabric about 1/8 in (or your chosen stitch length) inside the raw edge of the applique.
- Bring the needle back up through the base fabric just outside the raw edge, directly below the entry point, creating a straight vertical stitch.
- Before pulling the thread tight, loop the working thread under the needle tip from left to right.
- Pull the thread snug so the loop settles along the raw edge of the applique, forming a secure perpendicular bar that encases the edge.
- Repeat: Insert the needle 1/16–1/8 in to the right of the previous stitch (or left, if working counterclockwise), down through the layers, up outside the edge, loop thread under needle, pull snug.
7. Navigate Curves and Corners
- On gentle curves: Reduce stitch spacing slightly to keep the edge smooth and the looped bars close together; stitches may fan outward.
- On inner curves or concave edges: Maintain close spacing so no gaps appear at the raw edge.
- At outer corners: Work 2–3 stitches into the same outside hole at the corner point to pivot smoothly and create a sharp corner; fan the stitches slightly.
- At inner corners or V-notches: Work stitches close together at the corner to encase raw edges fully and reinforce the stress point.
8. Complete the Stitch Circuit
- Continue stitching around the entire perimeter of the applique shape, maintaining even tension and consistent stitch length.
- When you reach the starting point, overlap 2–3 stitches to secure the ending.
- To finish, take the needle to the back of the work, make a small anchoring stitch under previous stitches, then weave the thread end through the back of several stitches.
- Trim the thread tail close to the fabric.
9. Remove From Hoop and Press
- Remove the fabric from the embroidery hoop carefully to avoid distorting stitches.
- Place the work face-down on a clean towel or padded ironing surface.
- Press gently from the back with a warm iron to smooth the base fabric without flattening the dimensional embroidery stitches.
- If desired, lightly press the front on a low setting, using a pressing cloth.
10. Troubleshooting Common Issues
- Stitches pulling fabric: Loosen tension slightly; ensure base fabric is taut in the hoop before stitching.
- Uneven stitch spacing: Use a ruler or mark stitch placement lightly with a marking tool as a guide.
- Raw edges fraying: Choose tightly woven fabric, fuse thoroughly with web, or apply a thin layer of fabric glue or Fray Check to raw edge before stitching.
- Thread tangling: Use shorter lengths of thread, let the needle hang periodically to untwist, or wax the thread lightly with beeswax or Thread Heaven.
- Looped bar not catching edge: Make sure to bring the needle up just outside the raw edge and loop thread under the needle tip every time.
More Sewing Techniques!
Top FAQs for this technique:
Buttonhole stitch and blanket stitch are nearly identical. Buttonhole stitch typically has denser, closer spacing and a small knot or “purl” at the edge for durability, while blanket stitch may have wider spacing for a decorative look. Both encapsulate raw edges with a looped perpendicular bar.
Yes. Use a machine buttonhole stitch or blanket stitch setting (often a decorative stitch) to mimic the hand-sewn look. Reduce stitch length and width for precise edge coverage and test on scrap first
Use 2–3 strands for a delicate to medium-weight stitch, or all 6 strands for bold, prominent stitching. Perle cotton (size 8 or 5) gives a smooth, continuous look without separating strands.
No, but fusible web stabilizes raw edges and prevents shifting during stitching. For woven fabrics, you can baste or pin shapes in place; for felt or wool, no fusible is needed as these fabrics don’t fray.



